Tank Setup / Care

NOTE: First I have to clearly state these instructions are for "Aquatic Turtles" or water turtles. They are NOT for land turtles, such as a box turtle, or a tortoise-- which require a completely different  method of care. So if you have a land turtle, this page will not give you the correct care instructions.  

But if you are certain you have an aquatic turtle, then please read on. 😊 

So you have your new turtle (or you will be getting it very soon) and you need to know exactly what basic materials you will need to get started and set up a new tank for your pet-- this page will get you started. Later on, you can decide if you would like to go more elaborate, depending on the breed and size of your turtle. For now, these are just the basics for your average small aquatic pet turtle.   

First, if this is your first turtle and you have not yet purchased it, I strongly recommend getting a smaller breed. See the tab above for “Smaller Turtle Breeds”.   

That being said, these are the first things you should buy for the tank and your pet: 

1.       * A tank (10 gallons for every 1 inch of turtle shell length, up-seize as your turtle grows).  

2.       * Water dechlorinator for turtles (the chlorine in our tap water can make them sick).

3.       * Basking dock/ramp (floating or raised is better, the higher it is the more water you can have in the tank, and the less it will need cleaning).

4.       * Submergible aquarium Water heater.

5.       * Reptile light bulbs (one for UVA/UVB, and one for heat, you can also buy them combined into one bulb). The "Exo Terra Solar Glo 160W" is the one I use, it is UV and heat in one. It can cost about $35 to $70, depending where you buy it. Bulbs need to be changed about every 6 months.

6.     * Turtle food-- for adults, most adult aquatic turtle food is fine. Reptomin is a good brand, or ZooMed.  For babies (hatchlings), I prefer ZooMed Hatchling Formula. The pellets are small enough for babies to eat, and have extra nutrients they need for growth and health. 

7.      * Tooth brush (for scrubbing their shell, and cleaning the tank, it does get dirty).

8.       * Plastic tub to feed them in (just big enough so they cannot climb out).

9.      *  2 thermometers, one for under the water, one for the basking area can be a sticker thermometer. But glass are better for under water. You need to be able to monitor the temperature of the water and the basking area, for safety of the turtle.

10   * Aquarium water filter (its not necessary, but without a good one, you are in for a lot of cleaning).

11   *Aquarium water pump/hose and a large bucket (again not necessary, but it will make cleaning much easier). 

You can get fancy with decorations if you want, but that’s entirely up to you. If you use gravel, please get the large kind, like the size of a marble at least. Turtles can swallow the small gravel and have serious problems.  

 

(If this is an absolute emergency, like you found a turtle on the road, or not in a creek or lake, or someone gave it to you and you need a place to put him/her NOW, then go for a plastic tub, bottled or Britta-filtered water, and keep it in a warm place until you can get to a store to get the other stuff. But try to get the other stuff as soon as possible, as a turtle should not be living in those conditions for very long. If you have a heating pad, place it under the tub on the lowest setting to keep it warm. Please do not feed an aquatic turtle anything but turtle food, leafy greens, or small bits of fruit like a banana-- in water. You can also use fish food in an emergency. Or earth worms from your yard. Chop them up, if necessary. 

How To set up a turtle Tank (assuming you have all the above materials): 

1.       Secure your thermometers to the walls of you tank, on the inside. The stickers are best for the basking area, put it above the water, near the basking dock. The glass ones are best for under water, put them below where the water level will be, but not near the heater (this can give inaccurate readings). 

  

2.        Fill your tank with water (try to make the water about the temperature of your skin, or slightly cooler). Remember to leave some space for  the basking area, the water and basking area should not be so high that the turtle can climb out.  

3.       Measure out the proper amount of dechlorinator for the size of your tank, and add it to the water. Mix the dechlorinator around with your hands, stirring every part of the tank to blend it well.  

4.       Place your (clean) basking ramp/dock in the tank in the proper fashion. Make sure most of the basking area is above water, and some of it is below water. Turtles need a place to climb out of the water to dry off and “bask” under the heat/UVA-UVB bulbs to absorb those nutrients (and also so their shell won’t grow mildew) for at least 8 to 10 hours a day. If not, they will develop serious illnesses. 

 

5.       Place your submergible water heater under the water in the tank (most will secure to the wall) and put it on the correct setting. The water should be kept at about 78 to 82 degrees. 82 is better for babies.

   

6.       Set up your heat / UVA/UVB bulb(s)above the basking dock/ramp so that the basking area remains at a steady 80-85 degrees when the light is on. Be careful not to go above those temperatures. Move and adjust the light to get the correct temperature.

7.        At this point, you may add any decorations you have bought to the tank. Place your turtle in its new home and watch it explore!

Feeding Time:  

Its better to feed your turtle in a separate container outside the tank. A plastic Tupperware container is best, big enough for the turtle to move around in, and so the turtle cannot get out. But small enough to hide away when you are done. Scoop out some water from the turtle tank (just enough so it covers the turtle’s shell) and place it in the feeding tub. Its already dechlorinated and its water your turtle has adjusted to, so it will be more comfortable eating in that water. Some turtles won’t eat in strange water.  Also try to keep the feeding tub near the heat/UVA/UVB bulbs so the water won’t get cold. Many turtles will not eat in cold water. Feeding them in a separate tank will help keep the tank cleaner, for a longer time.   

Aquatic turtles cannot eat without water, they do not make their own saliva (only land turtles can eat outside the water, such as box turtles and tortoises). Place your aquatic turtle in the feeding tub and sprinkle some turtle food in there. About the amount that would fit in your turtles head. Leave your turtle in there to eat for about 30 minutes. Then brush off his shell with the tooth brush designated for him, and place him back in his tank.   

      

Cleaning Time:  

Remove your turtles from the tank and place them in their feeding tub, filled with some of their tank water. You can feed them while you clean, if they haven’t eaten yet. Remove all items from the tank (heater, glass thermometer, filter, basking dock, decorations). Unplug the heater before taking it out, the glass can crack if the heat is on while its dry. Use an aquarium hose and the bucket to empty most of the water out of the tank (or whatever means you have to empty it). Clamp off the hose if the bucket gets too full, while you empty it, then continue until the tank is mostly empty. Then you should be able to lift the tank enough o carry it to the kitchen sink or bath tub (which ever it fits in better). If it’s a really big tank you might want to take it outside and use a garden hose).   

Thoroughly rinse the tank clean. You can use a durable folded paper towel to scrub the inside of the tank. 

DO NOT use soap, or any cleaners. Only plain water.   

Dry the tank off thoroughly with paper towels. Scrub and rinse anything you had in the tank (the heater, the glass thermometer, the basking dock, decorations, the water filter, etc.) under plain water with the turtle designated tooth brush. If you have gravel, rinse it well in a strainer. Scrub the turtle’s shell (front and back) with the tooth brush as well. Put everything back in the tank, basically repeating steps 1 through 8 of the setup process. Then put your turtle back in his tank.   

And there you go! Those are the basics of aquatic turtle tank setup, cleaning and care.